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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.